Encens

For Fall/Winter 2024, ENCENS number 52 celebrate a crop of pushing boundaries designers. From the spellbound eighties of Claude Montana, who passed away this year, and to whom we consecrate a 40 pages monograph combining striking images and in-depth studies, to a disruptive new guard challenging our perceptions and inviting us to explore new dimensions of self-expression. Each page of this issue aim to propose a radical departure from the ordinary. By questioning our Here and Now. And reimagining what clothing could be. 

Scenes from the best possible life. The title open the pages of ENCENS with an essay by ANGELO FLACCAVENTO on GIORGIO ARMANI’s visual bond for ALDO FALLAI photographs spanning over more than two decades. A title that summarize this new issue, intersected with memories fraying their breeze in each and every story. From NADJA AUERMANN walking the look 23 in a tour de force collection designed by KOJI TATSUNO back in 1993, and seen as a wonderful pretext to delve into what a fashion critic should possibly be. Page 26, CHRISTIAN LACROIX recollect his fascinating trajectory, from the unknow esthetic nerd born in Arles to the upper scale sunlights in a captivating interview. CHRISTOPHER ANDREWS reflect on ELSA KLENSCH, the pioneer of television journalism on CNN, and remember her singular way of bringing onto the screen glimpses of the unattainable world of fashion. Artist perfumer BARNABE FILLION encounter RHYS EVANS for a talk on melancholy, permanence, and his relentless journey around the globe for the sake of beauty. LAUREN MANOOGIAN is the alien of NEW YORK fashion week. Her clothes encapsulate a high dose of never seen before craft with an equal sense of ease and minimalism. Interview page 56. The magazine ends in a nostalgic note. With a portfolio of CONSTANT ANEE. Photographic documents that resonate with a long gone idea of Paris in the early 2000’s. And encompasses the first steps of ENCENS, also shown in this n°51 issue.

Celebrating ENCENS n°50. With a bigger in scale issue. Wrapped in a box together with a shirt stamped by an exclusive print designed for the occasion by NICCOLO PASQUALETTI. Inside the pages, a delve in outtakes and unedited photographic gems captured over 20 years by SYBILLE WALTER. Our long time contributors went into an anthropological evocation of their waking up moment to fashion. ANGELO FLACCAVENTO bring us back in his Italian childhood where the scarcity of informations made his imagination flows. CHRISTOPHER ANDREWS is tapping into his 1996 first trip to New York. A decisive an changing one. SERGE LUTENS transport us to Marrakkech to tell the stories behind his prolific solo for the sake of beauty. Scrolling the magazine, visual portfolios of our favourites designers abound. GIORGIO ARMANI, HED MAYNER, UMA WANG… the list goes on in this issue taking the shape of a new beginning.

ENCENS N49, spring/summer 2023. An issue that shed a light on our passion for magazines. CHRISTOPHER ANDREWS has grown up surrounded with them. He remembers the way each title was curated, the flicking through the photographs, the touching of the paper. FRANCOISE HA VAN had her breakthrough in 1983 with French ELLE, where before anyone else she put into orbit the new shapeless appearence of the newcomers COMME DES GARCONS and YOHJI YAMAMOTO. PHILIP CLARKE goes down to memory lane with two of the most thought provoking stylists of our time - CAROLINE BAKER and DEBBI MASON. PATRIZIA ROVERSI recalls her styling for the most hypnotizing and purists Polaroids of the early career of PAOLO ROVERSI. MIGUEL ADROVER in conversation with DAL CHODHA. ANGELO FLACCAVENTO in an attempt to collect 786 words on the silent guru of minimalism ZORAN. And NICCOLO PASQUALETTI share his quest of never seen before garments with MERYL FONTEK.

DUPA N48 , musim gugur/dingin 2022. Masalah penyegaran. Empat sampul. Wajah, wanita, karakter yang unik. Halaman pembuka didedikasikan untuk ISSEY MIYAKE. Merayakan melalui sudut pandangnya yang belum dipetakan, mereka bertentangan secara diametral. Dengan lanskap hitam putih perkotaan MAX VADUKUL, tubuh setinggi langit mengenakan YOHJI YAMAMOTO secara mencolok. 'Jika tidak bergerak, berarti mati', kutipan ANGELO FLACCAVENTO. 

ENCENS N48, fall/winter 2022. A refresh issue. Four covers. Faces, womens, one of a kind characters. Opening pages dedicated to ISSEY MIYAKE. Celebrating through his uncharted point of view the diametrically opposed. With the urban black and white landscapes of MAX VADUKUL, the up to the skies bodies strikingly dressed in YOHJI YAMAMOTO. ‘If it ain’t moving, it’s dead’, quote ANGELO FLACCAVENTO. 

ENCENS N47, spring/summer 2022. A conversational issue. Trying to broaden perspectives in a gathering of mindful mindscapers. Starting around 1962 with an inside the story of JOHN BATES in an in-depth interview by DAL CHODHA. A fashion anthropology of the year 1984 of GIORGIO ARMANI dissected by ANGELO FLACCAVENTO. PETER SPELIOPOULOS and the shamanic conversion in molding sculptures rooted in soul. The allergic aversion of FRAN LEBOWITZ on embodying womanhood. SUZI DE GIVENCHY in a talk with MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN on how the dialogue beneath the dress is as essential as the dress itself. CLAUDE MONTANA and the praise of women dressed for an alternate universe. And HED MAYNER portrayal of a personal journey in clothes layering time and memories. 

DUPA N47, musim semi/musim panas 2022. Masalah percakapan. Mencoba memperluas perspektif dalam kumpulan mindcaper yang mindful. Dimulai sekitar tahun 1962 dengan kisah dalam JOHN BATES dalam wawancara mendalam oleh DAL CHODHA. Antropologi fesyen tahun 1984 GIORGIO ARMANI dibedah oleh ANGELO FLACCAVENTO. PETER SPELIOPOULOS dan pertobatan perdukunan dalam mencetak patung yang berakar pada jiwa. Keengganan FRAN LEBOWITZ dalam mewujudkan kewanitaan. SUZI DE GIVENCHY dalam pembicaraan dengan MARK KENLY DOMINO TAN tentang bagaimana dialog di balik gaun itu sama pentingnya dengan gaun itu sendiri. CLAUDE MONTANA dan pujian dari wanita yang berpakaian untuk alam semesta alternatif. Dan HED MAYNER menggambarkan perjalanan pribadi dalam pakaian yang melapisi waktu dan kenangan. 

ENCENS N46, fall/winter 2021 revolve around those defining moments that are shaping our ways of dressing. With an in-depth on Anne-Marie Beretta living architectures by Angelo Flaccavento. Claudia Skoda inventing David Bowie new look in Cold War Berlin. Lutz Huelle and his breakthrough out of pandemic with a T-shirt. Stephanie Danan and Justin Kern in a talk with Dal Chodha on minimalism. Giorgio Armani round framed glasses scrutinized by Christopher Andrews. Hed Mayner outscaled shields. And the more than ten versions of turning the most basic shirt into a dig in the unknown by Django Tetteroo.

DUNCING N46, musik gugur/dingin 2021 berkisar pada momen-momen penting yang membentuk cara kita berpakaian. Anda dapat mengetahui lebih lanjut tentang Anne-Marie Beretta dan Angelo Flaccavento. Claudia Skoda bergabung dengan David Bowie di Perang Dingin Berlin. Lutz Huelle dan terobosannya keluar dari pandemi dengan T-shirt. Stephanie Danan dan Justin Kern berbicara dengan Dal Chodha tentang minimalis. Kacamata berbingkai bulat Giorgio Armani disurvei oleh Christopher Andrews. Hed Mayner melampaui perisainya. Dan lebih dari sepuluh versi mengubah kemeja paling dasar menjadi kesukaan yang tidak diketahui oleh Django Tetteoo.

Couverture par Francesco Brigida 

Contributeurs: Jean-Paul Gaultier – Bill Gibb – Maryse Gaspard – Joan Juliet Buck – Marie Piovesan – Claudia Huidobro – Camille Bidault Waddington – Loc Boyle